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  • EDITO - Issue 6

     

     

    While the world’s capitals are still abuzz with the echoes of their respective fashion weeks  - in Paris, New York, London, Milan… - this issue will take you on a journey to the origins.

    Not unlike travel, fashion takes you into the heart of a mythical past, reinvented in the present. Today’s creators are inspired by yesterday’s fashion when crafting tomorrow’s style. Fashion trends are the ephemeral mirror of a fast-moving society.

    And the same goes with travel: today’s adventurers are inspired by yesterday’s remains, cultures and ways of life, landscapes and territories, in their quest for the original, the exclusive, the rare and the beautiful. Those places transport us and open our minds for new sensations, overflowing our senses with their depth and their allure. From Island’s arid, mineral lands, reminiscent of ancient ages, to London’s fast-paced creativity: here is a journey through the history of humanity, a leap of a few thousand years.  Wouldn’t travelling through time be the most beautiful journey of all?

    Jorge Apesteguia-Peña

    Contents

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    Iceland is an island of over 100,000 km2 that rises at 500 meters above sea level. Its volcanoes are still active: they have erupted over 30 times in the last two centuries.

    Not so long ago in 2010, the Eyjafjöll’s spectacular eruption kept all of Europe grounded for an entire month.

    At the vanguard of sustainable energies thanks to its glaciers, volcanoes, hot springs and geysers, the island enjoys a limitless supply of cheap and green electricity.

     

    The island is a must-go spot for fans of extreme landscapes and back-to-basics lifestyles, who dream of immersing themselves in its eternal snows.

    Iceland is also at the forefront of feminism: it is the first – and only – European country to have elected a female President.

    Vigdís Finnbogadóttir was the first woman in the world who was voted President through universal suffrage.

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    In winter, the climate gets rough. Temperatures routinely drop below -15°C and the weather can change very suddenly: predictions can’t be relied on, although rainstorms can…

    High-tech garments are a must to protect yourself from the extreme cold, when driving a jeep or a snowmobile across the glaciers. You can pretend you’re Mike Horn or Gilles Elkaim. Actually, before you go, make sure you have a look at the two adventurer’s achievements.

    On a trip to Iceland, your life won’t be much different from theirs: waking up before dawn (there is barely six hours of daylight every day) to discover the crevices, the cauldrons or the ice cones in the stunning setting of the glaciers.

    Three sites have shaped the country’s image and are a concentrate of all Icelandic landscapes: Thingvellir National Park, the Gulfoss waterfall and Geysir.

    In Thingvellir, you are halfway between Europe and America: in the huge rift created by continental drift. You will walk along a lake in a vast lava field, and watch endless stretches of green plains. You will dive in the incredibly blue waters of the Silfra crack. Marine springs make your descent easier, as there is very little current. This Unesco-listed diving site is amongst the most beautiful in the world: under the water you can see cracks, volcanoes and hot water springs, thanks to an incredible level of visibility in the glacier’s pure waters .

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    "The bay of smokes":  his is the litteral meaning of Reykjavik – a reference to the city’s hot springs and baths. The city is full of surprising contrasts, with black lava houses standing next to modern buildings and colourful corrugated iron houses.

    A basecamp for travellers in Iceland, the city has become a popular city break destination, with all its hotels, restaurant and quirky cafés, often inspired by the beauty of natural landscapes. Reykjavik is a must for a weekend’s break.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    When you walk around the capital, you’ll be surprised by the amount and the diversity of artwork scattered around and sometimes built into the city. There are art festivals and openings all year round. The city has no less than six museums, for a population of only 120,000.

    At night, the trendy cafés of Laugavegur and Austurstreti like Thorvalsen or Kaffibarin turn their lights down and turn into heaving night clubs.

    Music-wise, we all know Björk or the band Of Monsters and Men, which has just come back from a sold-out tour. But the most exciting is to go to the countless small gigs that take place every week in Reykjavik’s streets and pubs, sometimes even in shops or hotel lobbies… There you’re likely to hear pop, rock or electro, or perhaps soft folk music – the perfect soundtrack to a dinner of lobster, seabirds or whale steak…

     

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    I am not a great fan of travel. Travelling puts me through a lot of stress and anxiety. It is very visceral and unconscious, and I don’t know how to get rid of this stress. I think I got it from my grandma on my mother’s side, who had to leave Corsica in the twenties.

    For years she unable to go back, or even to have any news from her family. I can understand what my grandma must have felt: leaving your loved ones behind…

    But still I love going places, discovering somewhere new, as long as there is no obligation for me to do so. For a long time, I used to take only the smallest amount of luggage possible. But now I take things that I love: my tea, gluten-free treats, notebooks…

    I pack my clothes in pretty bags; I pick a nice toiletry bag, beauty products… I prepare meditation sessions for the plane.

    When I rent a holiday house, I get bed sheets, towels and tablecloths shipped over.

    I’ve always loved Italy. It is be one of the only countries where I would feel comfortable living, where I would immediately feel at home – without getting that exciting feeling of being in a foreign city.

    I learned Italian in high school, and I used to speak it very fluently, like a second mother tongue.

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    When I was a junior perfume designer for Guerlain, I used to go to Calabria at least once a year for bergamot harvest season. Regio di Calabria is a large and slightly provincial Mediterranean town. It is a bit like an old-fashioned, faded version of Cannes. The seafront has this holiday feel to it, but in February it is always cold and windy. The sea is pretty cold in the strait of Messina. The place is very near Taormina. You can take a boat and go to Sicily for the day.

    Being a perfume designer doesn’t mean you have an extraordinary sense of smell. But in Calabria you do get really unusual smells: the factories have this warm, green smell of hot citrus fruit. There is the smell of the sea. Over there, everyone can grow bergamot: once I met a fisherman who had his own fields. It is interesting to see how these fragrances can work together.

    The food there is incredibly tasty – typical seaside Italian food with lots of seafood, fish pasta, vegetables… It’s fantastic. And the landscapes! In Calabria, some villages still very much bear the mark of the ancient times. You can still find preserved spots with no tarmacked roads and wooden shacks. The nature is still untouched.

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    I love hotels. But when I get there, one small detail and the experience can go completely wrong.

    If the place is perfumed, it ruins everything for me. If I am staying in a hotel, like I did in London recently, and its perfume is so pregnant, so concentrated that it blocks the air, that breathing becomes difficult, I find it unbearable. This needs to be said! Hotel managers do not imagine that this can be unpleasant: it is 90% of the time. Perfuming a room can mean two things: that the client smells bad, and that they are not at home. But the most thoughtful thing you can do for someone is to make them feel like they’re at home.

    Perfume tells a different story from the one that is imposed upon us. Balzac used to say: “I belong to the opposition party, which is called life”. I would like to show that there is something else to perfume than what we are being force-fed all day long.

    The perfume industry is still very macho. I don’t understand why women are not rebelling against that. There is always this caricatured view of women.

    Even a smell that you love becomes unpleasant if it is too concentrated. The body resists and worries. This goes against all sense of pleasure in perfume. We should come back to common sense, to associating pleasure with sincerity and with a form of beauty.

     

    More personal: Rome. A city for farniente and curiosity, a city for losing control. I was lucky enough to stay at the Villa Medici, in the city’s historical centre - which is also the heart of modernity and creativity. You can walk everywhere, to all the shops and museums. You are part of the city’s face. I like the cultural shock, and feeling immersed in all this beauty.

    A place’s visual beauty is very important in my quest for serenity, quiet and plenitude. I need to be cleansed out by beauty. It helps me recharge my batteries.

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    all you need is art

    Imagine coming through the door and being greeted by Sir Paul Smith himself: this is almost what happens at this exhibition. This retrospective dedicated to the British designer at London’s Design Museum does not adopt a backwards glance on his collections. Rather, it is a journey to the heart of a creative process: the work of a man who has remained attentive to the surrounding world, perpetually connected to youth culture – both drawing from it and inspiring it. A creator who is fuelled by passion and curiosity.

    There is something typically British about his indefatigable energy. Unlike some designers who sometimes unwillingly find themselves trapped in their own universe, Paul Smith’s very distinctive style is combined with energy, vitality and momentum. For him, elegance is a way of life. This ability to move forward, to build on while remaining firmly connected to his roots, is reflected by the exhibition. Paul Smith route into fashion was unconventional.

    He was planning to become a professional cyclist but after an accident started creating t-shirts

     for his rock ‘n’ roll friends, Led Zeppelin and Pink Floyd.

    Today, he has become a fashion icon for dandies, controls a whole empire, creates about twenty collections a year and owns shops in each of the world’s great capitals, from Beijing to Cape Town through to Amsterdam and Los Angeles. And now, he has a place in a museum! Like in a Monty Python movie, we travel back through time to the sixties. We visit Smith’s first shop in Nottingham in 1976: the shop is recreated to the same size (10ft by 10ft), with its objects and records. Where does Paul Smith take his inspiration from today?

    From architecture, nature… “I am lucky enough to have eyes that really look at things. I perceive volumes, light, textures. All of those come together in my head. I find inspiration everywhere, but I do not look at other people’s work. I want to create clothes for tomorrow.” A must-see exhibition!

    Design Museum: 28 Shad Thames, London, Greater London SE1 2YD, United Kingdom

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    Lovers of fine wines and architecture are in for a treat with Cantina Antinori: a new futuristic palace in the heart of the Chianti where the Antinori dynasty is concocting some of the world’s best wines.

     

     

    Near the small village of Bargino South of Florence, amongst the vine-planted hills and woods, a strange construction of rust-coloured concrete seems to be emerging from the ground. Behind its state-of-the-art façade, the Cantina Antinori hides six centuries old secrets.

    The Antinori family, founded its vineyard in 1385. Twenty-six generations later, the Marquess Pietro Antinori is running the vinery. Since taking the lead of the family empire, Antinori has shaken up winemaking traditions, experimenting with new grape varieties and techniques. Results: the house’s finest vintages, such as the Tignanello or the Solaia, often crop up in the world’s best wines lists. His latest innovation was to commission architects Archea to create a high-tech temple to Bacchus.

     

     

    The curves of its coloured concrete walls and its  bannisters blend in with the landscapes, and disappear under a vine-planted roof terrace.

    By visiting this unique vinery, you will also immerse yourself in the history of the Antinori dynasty. The museum keeps the product of six hundred years of arts patronage, with contemporary sculptures designed especially for this space. The Cantina’s shop sells the house’s famous vintages, together with a selection of regional products. In the restaurant, you will sample Tuscany’s typically rustic cuisine – papa, a bread and tomato soup – in an ultra-contemporary dining room with views of the vineyards: once again, the perfect mix of modern design and Tuscan art de vivre.

    Antinori Chianti adresse: Marchesi Antinori s.r.l. Piazza Antinori, 350123 Firenze - Italia    TEL: +39 055 23 595

    The house's iconic wine: Villa Antinori 2008. A fleshy, powerful red wine with a rich dark robe and undertones of red berries. Perfect with red and white meats. Fiulot 2010: a bright and summery wine. Light and bright with an aroma of berries, cherry and plum. Goes well with pasta, risottos and cheeses.  

     

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    In October, the temperatures in Andalucia are at last allowing you to skip the siesta and walk around at midday – but the mercury is still likely to hit the early 30s. Time to put on your hiking boots and explore the countryside inland: the national park of Sierra de Aracena offers sublime walks amongst red-leaved chestnut trees. Do try tapas of pan-fried mushrooms, or setas.

    In this season, the summer heat has dropped and a visit of inland sites becomes more comfortable. The sea temperature is delicious. According to the locals, the period just after the first Autumn rains (from late September to early October) is the best to watch fishes and underwater wildlife. The Autumn is also the best time to experience Istanbul’s thriving art scene, with a Biennale of contemporary art taking place from mid-September to mid-October.

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    What better time of year to enjoy the steep beauty of this small part of the coast near Naples? In October, the climate is still mild. A gold-coloured light brushes the rocks, cliffs and ochre hillside villages. The traffic jams on the coastal road around Sorrento have vanished: you can go for a drive around the gulf in a convertible, and swim in all privacy in one of the gorgeous coves dotted along the coast. In your plate, the late summer vegetables are still there, with tomatoes at their tastiest, stuffed peppers and delicious aubergines for the Caponata.

    In the autumn, the big cruise boats that crowd the harbours of the Adriatic have sailed away: it is the best time to explore the paradise islands dotted along the Croatian coast. To enjoy an extra bit of summer, sail to Lopud, an island just half an hour from Dubrovnik: this small island on the Southern coast is famous for its fine sand beaches. There are no cars there, just a small harbour where you will be able to soak in the autumn’s warm sunshine, with small tracks planted with fig trees, pines and cypresses.

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    It is small but its power is legendary. In the 50’s, James Cooper dreamed up a car that was as fast as a Formula 1 and could slalom the Alps’ most sinuous roads or whizz around central London just as effortlessly. Inside, it feels like sitting in a go-kart or in a bumper car... Pretty subversive from today’s perspective!

    After staying parked away for a while, the Mini is now one of the most iconic cars of our times, thanks to its ability to reinvent and transform itself. Just like the very latest model, presented at the Geneva Auto Show last Spring.

    More suited for Victoria Beckham’s shopping than for James Bond’s car chases, the Mini Clubman Bond Street can tackle Mayfair’s tight U-turns just as elegantly as Windsor or Versailles’ alleys. It holds the road like a dream, and changing gears makes you feel like Lewis Hamilton or Kimi Raïkkonnen… all of that without compromising on absolute comfort: the driver is comfortably seated on a Champagne-coloured moulded leather seat, in front of a Black Carbon leather dashboard.

    The bodywork is sculpted like a jewel, with Midnight Black metallic paint contrasting with a Champagne-coloured roof, mirrors and stripes. So chic and feminine, and as addictive as a Roland Mouret dress…

     

    Paul Smith Mini, 1997
    Unique creation with 84 stripes
    et 24 differents colors.

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    Over the past ten years, fixed gear bikes – or fixies – have gone from the courier’s arsenal to the hipster’s kit, and then to the list of the urban design amateur’s most prized possessions. With sleek minimalist lines and a custom-made design that makes each piece unique, the bicycle has turned from a means of transportation into a luxury item. These days, you select and flaunt your fixie as you would a fashion accessory. 

    Famous brands are increasingly trying their hand at the production of luxury bicycles: Louis Vuitton’s polo bike, Chanel’s black and white model, Fendi’s city bicycle with removable fur saddlebags… Paul Smith, a notorious cycling fanatic, has teamed up with mythical London brand Condor to create a line of couture bicycles that marry old-fashioned finish (a Brooks leather saddle and leather grip on the handles) and cutting-edge technology (hand-crafted frame and wheels), with the designer’s typical touch of colour. Smith also designed a line of fluo leather racing saddles for Kashimax.

    Marc Schmitt, a journalist and  figurehead of the Paris bike polo scene, was prompt in spotting the trend: in 2011 he launched Steel, a quarterly magazine on fixies. “Beyond a sport, we are bringing the spotlight on a whole culture and a lifestyle”, he explains. The magazine offers features on urban practices of single-gear riding, portraits of riders or makers, but also fashion stories for the style-conscious cyclist.

    Fashion has also embraced the trend. Dayglow lycra is a thing of the past, thanks to British label Rapha’s vintage-style merino polos: a few years ago, the brand even launched a line in collaboration with Paul Smith (him again!). For women on two wheels, US brand Vespertine has created reflective jackets that make you want to keep them on once on foot. And Levis launched a line of stretch-rich jeans: today’s hipster can ride comfortably without giving up on skinny jeans. No more excuses to keep your bike in the garage!   

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    A new pied-à-terre in Paris for men who wear Paul Smith. In this shop entirely dedicated to the brand, where the designer’s four menswear collections are on display, they can put compose their seasonal wardrobe. The shop’s decor blends antique and contemporary furniture – the perfect atmosphere to pick up Smith’s famous rock ‘n roll chic, as showcased by David Bowie or James Blunt.

    The colours on the walls were inspired by German designer Dieter Rams, with subtle greys, whites and bright turquoise. And two Olivetti desks bring an extra touch of the sixties to the shop.

     

     

    Mizzle means a mix of mist and drizzle in Dorset dialect. Sudbury Yellow draws its name from the stairs in Sudbury Hall.

    Farrow & Ball just released a new palette with even more colours: bright yellows, subtle blues, and understated and chic greys… Farrow & Ball’s paints are inspired by, designed and made in Dorset.

    The colours have an incredibly high concentration in ultra-fine pigments and natural resin: this gives them an inimitable finish and a great resistance to the passage of time.

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    While the puritan and austere queen Victoria ruled on the British empire, making it the first world power, British painters eschewed its moral rigors and celebrated a rather erotic conception of feminity.

    On a background of luxurious or antique nature, they would paint voluptuous young women – lascivious, sensual, abandoned or in love… And to think that around the same time, Dickens was writing David Copperfield...

    Fifty of these subtle paintings are displayed at the Musée Jacquemart André in Paris: their celebration of feminine beauty is not to be missed.

     

     

    The English love gardens and flowers, as well as perfumes that recreate the whirls of the floral world. Jo Malone’s “Peony & Blush Suede” is a bohemian-chic tribute to Cecil Beaton: a voluptuous and delicate bouquet of peonies against a backdrop of suede.

    Dedicated to the English National Ballet, Penhaligon’s “Iris Prima” is a slightly melancholic but beautiful essence of iris.

    Miller Harris’ fragrance, “Rose in Dark”, recreates the animality of the Damas rose and interprets its petals – like velvet tapestries – in a mix of patchouli and black tobacco.

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    Haydon Clout, the owner, hails from New Zealand. The chef, Matt Ong, is British. The décor is reminiscent of an old-fashioned French bistro, with racks full of Bourgogne and Côtes du Rhône, a zinc counter and wooden tables.

    The menu changes every day: a plate of charcuterie as appetizers, 4 starters and 4 mains, a plate of cheeses and 3 deserts. Today, black pudding was matched with squid and black radish; roasted cod with heirloom tomatoes; and rice pudding with white nectarines. Subtlety primes. English cheeses, served in small touches, are perfect for the winter. A truly lovable place that will soon convert you into a regular.

    No wonder this mythical avenue in Paris was named after an English king: with all its palaces, Avenue Georges V is the most British of all Parisians. If the Beatles and the Rolling Stones where regulars at the Georges V hotel, you now need to head to the Prince de Galles to meet the French and British crème de la crème.

    After two years’ redecoration under the direction of Pierre-Yves Rochon, this masterpiece of Art Deco built in 1928 has retained its legendary understated elegance. The perfect bar to sip a Bloody Mary…    

  • Ours - issue 6

    Editorial director JORGE APESTEGUIA

    jorge@hoogui.com

    Chief editor CATHERINE JAZDEZWSKI

    catherine.j@hoogui.com

    Art director LUDIVINE PARET

    ludivine.p@hoogui.com

    Editors VALENTINE LEŸS / MAUD CHARTON

    valentine.l@hoogui.com / maud.c@hoogui.com

    Marketing manager DAMIEN LORANT

    damien.l@hoogui.com

    IN NEXT MONTH’S MAGAZINE...

    First snow in Spitzberg

    Sunbathing in Bresil

    Private visit of London by Sir Paul Smith

    Silk art by Fosca Bertran

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