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  • Edito 06

    Winter is here at last. Cosily tucked in our coats and cashmere jumpers, we are preparing for the grey smog to flow into our lives. The sunny days are behind, but all is not lost: the smell of logs burning in the fireplace have replaced the heat of summer, and the trees are shedding the last of their yellow leaves to reveal their bare essence. The North is calling: endless stretches of snow, the exhilarating race of sled dogs, and nights stretching to the point where the sun is completely absent. In the winter night, the auroras – the magical lights that have been fascinating the people living around the Arctic circle for millennia - enchant us with their mystical glow. An extraordinary sight for the eyes and for the mind.

    Meanwhile, urban life takes back its course: cafés, concerts, shopping trips and brand new spots stealing the show in Europe’s great capitals such as London. We are in search of the latest must-have or the hottest place to be: unknown spots for our minds to escape, in the city or elsewhere.

    This month, our desires took us to faraway lands. We set off for unforgettable experiences in unusual countries, offering a blend of adventure and well-being. We followed the footsteps of adventurous explorers or great urban artists such as our guest Paul Smith, in our quest for style and evasion.

    Jorge Apesteguia-Peña

    In this issue_

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    It is past midnight and the sun is flooding the icy archipelago. In the white silence, the ice is cracking around the boat as it sails slowly towards the ice sheets. Dozens of birds fly off in the frozen immensity of the frozen Arctic ocean. With every moment, the light changes the scenery. Every hour brings a new spectacle. On board, the talk is not of whale or bear hunting but of sustainable tourism and landscape conservation. Suddenly the boat slows down to approach a herd of walruses, dozing heavily on the ice sheet.

    Further away, we come near a beluga whale who swims by our side for a few minutes. What is she looking for? Perhaps a family of bears? Almost five thousand bears live in the seas and islands of the Svalbard. They are excellent swimmers who mostly feed from seals, but can also sometimes men. Best to be careful and not stray away on one’s own in the white immensity: the bears can weight up to 800 kilos.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Soon the journey turns into a real polar expedition. We immerse ourselves in the Arctic universe of the Great North, with no sounds to be heard but the silence and the ice cracking. At this latitude, there is barely any rain: the Spitzberg is a cold desert with barely any snow, and only grass, flowers and fruit in the summer. There are no paths traced on the mountains or through the valleys. The landscapes are stunning. The seasons are short and bring great variations of climate. In the winter, it stays dark for two months. But there is also the polar summer and its midnight sun, when the sun never comes down! On those nights, sleeping is difficult: those bright nights are too fascinating. Enough to make you lose your bearings and travel back in time to the days of the great explorations…

    Just like yesterday’s expeditions in the fjords of the archipelago, our boat has sailed a few hours earlier from Longyearbyen, the capital of Spitzberg, where the planes land. This is the Northernmost civilization, lost in the middle of the fjords. Today, the capital of the Svalbard archipelago’s northernmost island has a population of over two thousand. The Svalbard, under Norwegian sovereignty, is covered with ice for 60%. It is made up of five main islands including the Spitzberg, which is the largest and the only inhabited island.

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    This large island has first been the starting point for the greatest polar expeditions in history. Many explorers have ventured into its fjords and icy mountains: adventurers, scientists, industrialists, but also whale hunters and trappers. But contrary to what we might thing, the Inuits never settled there: they were unable to sail past the ice sheet, which would have drifted with them all the way to Greenland! Its discovery goes back to 1596, when the Dutch sailor Willem Barents discovered a passage between the North and the East: the famous straight of Barents. After a battle with a polar bear, Barents discovered those snow-covered “spiky mountains” (Spitzberg in Norwegian) as he was trying to sail around the island. There is no trace left of this expedition in the Svalbard, except in Barent’s diary. 

     

     

     

    At the beginning of the 1900s, men were killing around 3,000 bears per year in the archipelago. Over two centuries, the Dutch, French, English, Norwegians and Danish hunted whales and walruses by the thousand in the archipelago’s waters. The whale was used in Europe to make luxury goods like soap or perfume, but also to develop public lighting in the streets of the continent’s great capitals…

    This slaughter depopulated the region from these great mammals, and almost led to the species’ extinction as early as the early 17th century. It was then the land fauna’s turn to be hunted down, in particular for their fur and ivory. Walruses, bears, reindeers, foxes and seals were hunted by Russian trappers from the 18th century.

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    Then came a succession of scientific explorations: geology, climatology, cartography… These research expeditions quickly led to the exploitation of the area’s mineral riches, in particular its coal deposits: this led to conflicts on the ownership of the Svalbard’s lands between Russia and Norway.

    Today, this mining town has transformed into a real sector of tertiary activity, thanks to the construction of Longyearbyen airport in 1975.

    Its economy is based on scientific research, on the exploitation of its seven mines, and on tourism. The inhabitants live in small, colourful houses.

    They go to mass, to museums, to university, to the swimming pool. Like all other Europeans, they do their shopping at the supermarket. In its cafes, you can meet Norwegian or Russian researchers, who expatriated themselves in the Svalbard for a few years to carry out their research on climate and geothermic energy.

    In the last few years, this port which used to be a refuelling stop for fishing boats and scientific missions, has become a real holiday resort, with luxury hotels like the Spitzbergen Hotel or the Radisson Blu Polar. For a more authentic holiday, it is easy to find a charming guesthouse or a cosy bed and breakfast.

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    all you need is art

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

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    When is London most beautiful? Definitely early in the morning! I love London when it's empty because late in the evening it's always really full. I went to Chelsea Flower Show yesterday, which was great. I like to go very early (7.30am!) before the crowds get there: it is usually just me and the TV crews setting up.

    I take lots of photographs of the flowers which often become prints for dresses, scarves or shirts in my collections. It was all very inspiring!

    In September, we opened a new shop in Mayfair. The idea for the new shop is that it was designed from the heart, not from the wallet: that means that it's not got any formulaic design attached to it, it's all very eclectic.

    It's modern, but it's got floor surfaces that change from stone to wood block, to planks of wood which have shapes cut into them, they're not all parallel. It has one room which is all dominoes. It's got many, many custom made aspects to it. And of course the main thing as well as the interior is the facade of one of the shops  - as there are two together: N°11 and N°9. The facade of number 11 is designed by English architects 6A and is made from cast iron which is totally unique in London.

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    It is hard to imagine that an area of London now synonymous with success, celebrities and sophistication was once a byword for reckless speculation and bankruptcy, but Mayfair had rather inauspicious beginnings.

    The district, once known as Albemarle Ground, was targeted in 1684 by a group, headed by Sir John Bond, of what diarist John Evelyn called 'bankers and mechanics'. It was at this time that embryonic streets, to be known as Albemarle, Bond, Dover and Stafford, were laid out.

    This quartet of thoroughfares can claim to be the original heart of Mayfair, even though it was some time before it began beating - Bond died, lawsuits flew, penury loomed for some and, by 1720, although the south of Albemarle Street was described  as housing 'persons of

     quality',  the northern section was compared to 'the ruins of Troy'.

    The focus of fashionable London – despite those persons of quality – was still elsewhere, notably Covent Garden and Kensington.

    We had over thirty children come down from Beeston Fields Primary School in Nottingham yesterday. Some of them had never left Nottingham before, let alone visited London, so we rented a coach for them and they came down to the studio. They first contacted me back in December to ask me to design their school ties. I wrote back and visited them in Beeston and suggested that with some clues from us, they design the ties instead. We selected four finalists from the class and then they were allowed to choose their favourite. The chosen one was a very nice, colourful stripe which they nick-named 'The Rainbow Stripe'.

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    For Miuccia Prada, Christmas means obsession: the grown-ups are obsessed with finding beautiful presents, the young ones are obsessed with opening them… So when Le Printemps invited her to be their special Christmas guest, she chose Obsession as her theme. The window displays show all the symbols of Christmas: gingerbread, presents, trees, decorations and teddy bears.

    In the store’s windows, some 80 bears are indulging in childhood pleasure: playing doll, eating sweets or riding a sledge… Miuccia is also an obsessive collector of accessories and jewels: she has created a special Prada for Le Printemps limited edition.

    For Christmas, Frédéric Malle asked perfume designer Dominique Ropion to recreate the scent of a Christmas tree in a candle. The effect is guaranteed, with the added warmth of honey and cinnamon. Diptyque has invited Tsé & Tsé: the two designers inspired themselves from the light festivals of India and Thaïland. They created light holders that play with the light and transform it, while diffusing fragrances of Chaya orange, Indian incense and pine tree bark.

    Imagine a Japan cypress with a hint of galbanum and cedar: just delicious. Finally, head to Cape Cod with John Derian for Astier de Vilatte. His Provincetown candle has a scent of cedar wood and wild grass… a wild, natural Christmas.

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    In the Maison du Chocolat, Santa Claus is called Nicolas Cloiseau. This exceptional, entirely handmade piece, “Rêve d’une Nuit”, is inspired by clocks. A disk of dark chocolate with embedded dried fruit and nuts – almonds, walnuts, pecans – strikes midnight as white chocolate reindeers rush into the snow…

    They stop in a forest whose trees are made of Sacher biscuit with almonds, zabaglione, a subtle Blanc de Noir champagne jelly, cubes of red Alps pear flambéed with pear grappa, and a Madagascar chocolate mousse… A fairy tale of flavours for the entire family.

     

    “Those who look at this plate will have the impression of going on a trip. It will take them on a journey into faraway countries… all the while subliming the dish”, commented the New-York artist. Those who have missed the Fiac art fair in Paris can make up for it with this collection of cups and plates signed by Julian Schnabel for the 150 years of Bernardaud. The collection showcases his touch as a narrative painter and a filmmaker: the images appear photographed under different angles, with dreamy views of a fantasy Orient.

    The paintings are also reminiscent of the art of travel dinnerware in the19th century. Before this collaboration, Bernardaud had commissioned other pieces by Jeff Koons, Sarkis, Jean-Michel Allerola, Prune Nourry. The company also used Marc Chagall’s sketches “Les Vitraux d’Hadassah”, which had been made for Jerusalem hospital.

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    17th October 2013. At 8 o’clock sharp in each time zone, Brussels, London, Marrakech, New York, Rio, Rome and Paris are fizzing to the same music: that of fine pink bubbles that twirl, frolic and rise up to the sky. In 1987, as a tribute to his daughter Alexandra, Bernard de Nonancourt created the Cuvée Alexandra. Since then, there has only been six vintages as this champagne is only produced on exceptional years. Laurent Perrier’s 2008 Alexandra Grande Cuvée Rosé consecrates the excellence of champagne – a perfect companion for the finest foie gras, which will be sublimated by its notes of suave spices and roses.

    Brunch? A moment of pure pleasure spent together. Christofle asked Jean-Marie Massaud to stage this privileged moment: the designer acquitted himself of the task with lightness and subtlety, and imagined 19 pieces for the Sunday table: a pastry basket, jars for the sugar, jam and dry fruit, a bowl for serving soups, platters and serving dishes. Our favourite piece: the tea fountain, or a contemporary reinvention of the Russian samovar.  Now all you need to do is set the table and indulge in a spread of home-made delicacies.

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    Editorial director JORGE APESTEGUIA

    jorge@hoogui.com

    Chief editor CATHERINE JAZDEZWSKI

    catherine.j@hoogui.com

    Art director LUDIVINE PARET

    ludivine.p@hoogui.com

    Editors VALENTINE LEŸS / MAUD CHARTON

    valentine.l@hoogui.com / maud.c@hoogui.com

    Marketing manager DAMIEN LORANT

    damien.l@hoogui.com

    Special thanks to Odile Idkowiak and all Paul Smith's team.

    IN NEXT MONTH’S MAGAZINE..

    Where will you spend the end of the year?

    In an igloo hotel in Switzerland?

    Noelie Viallet, Chief Editor of Paris New York TV, shares her Saint Martin travel diary.

    Which designer will you wear for New Year's Eve?

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07.14
ISSUE 11
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Luxuous wedding
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Mountain retraits
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07.13
ISSUE 03
There is the sky, the sun and the sea ..
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Beaten Track
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